This US state closes beaches and a pier due to waves of up to 35 feet (10.7 meters): some areas are under alert

The National Weather Service issued a warning for breaking waves of up to 10.7 meters along the central and northern California coast. (REUTERS/Mike Blake)Authorities in Santa Cruz, California, closed the city's beaches and the municipal wharf amid an episode of dangerous maritime conditions affecting the central and northern coast of the state. The forecast calls for breaking waves of up to 10.7 meters, with occasional sets even higher in especially exposed sections of the coastline. The situation also keeps other coastal communities in Santa Cruz County under watch, where authorities issued warnings for residents of vulnerable areas to be prepared for possible evacuations. The risk includes flooding, rip currents, and waves that can reach areas far from the usual waterline. The episode coincides with the strengthening of El Niño in the Pacific Ocean, according to the latest assessment by federal climate agencies. However, meteorologists attribute this weekend's surf to a succession of intense low-pressure systems in the northeast Pacific, which are generating dangerous conditions off California. The United States National Weather Service (NWS) maintains a high surf warning for various sections of the California coast, including San Francisco, the San Francisco Peninsula, the North Bay, Monterey Bay, and the Big Sur coastline. The advisory began at 6:00 p.m. on Friday, November 13, and will remain in effect until 4:00 a.m. on Sunday the 15th, Pacific time. For beaches exposed to the ocean, the agency forecast breaking waves of 25 to 35 feet, equivalent to 7.6 to 10.7 meters. At spots especially favorable for the formation of large waves, such as Mavericks Beach, near Half Moon Bay, occasional sets of 40 to 50 feet could occur, that is, approximately 12.2 to 15.2 meters. The NWS warned that these conditions considerably raise the risk of accidents in coastal areas. Waves can sweep people away from beaches, piers, jetties, and rock formations, even when they remain at a certain distance from the water. There is also a high risk of rip currents and so-called sneaker waves, waves that unexpectedly surge up the sand and can reach those walking or standing near the shore. Given this scenario, the agency recommended staying out of the water, avoiding piers and other structures near the ocean, and not approaching cliffs or rocks. It also asked people to respect barriers and restrictions installed by local authorities. The coastal flood advisory warns of the impact of high tides on seawalls, streets, and low-lying facilities. (REUTERS/Mike Blake)The city of Santa Cruz announced the temporary closure of its beaches and the Santa Cruz Wharf from 10:00 p.m. on Friday, November 13, until 5:00 a.m. on Sunday the 15th. The decision responds to the dangerous surf and the possible effects of maritime conditions on coastal infrastructure. The municipality clarified that the wharf would remain open during its usual Friday operating hours and that the restriction would begin at night. It also specified that the structure is in safe condition, although public access will be suspended as a precautionary measure. The reopening planned for Sunday will depend on weather reports and the assessment carried out by municipal teams. If conditions remain dangerous, the restrictions could be extended or modified. The closure of Cowell Beach has a particularity: that beach had already been closed on Thursday, November 12, due to the stranding of a whale, and will remain closed until further notice. Therefore, its situation does not depend exclusively on this weekend's high surf warning. Santa Cruz Fire Department Chief Rob Oatey asked residents and visitors to respect the restrictions. The official warned that entering the water or approaching dangerous coastal areas puts both people and the maritime safety personnel who might have to carry out a rescue at risk. The city also asked people to avoid beach access points, rocky areas, and other spaces exposed to the impact of the waves. Municipal teams will continue monitoring conditions throughout the weekend to determine when it will be safe to allow the public back in. The danger is not limited to the city's beaches. Santa Cruz County also activated preventive measures for communities located in areas vulnerable to flooding and the advance of water over the shoreline. According to the county's Emergency Operations Center, the evacuation warnings in effect since 2:00 p.m. on Friday, November 13, covered two areas: Potbelly Beach, New Brighton State Beach, and the campground area, as well as the Las Olas neighborhood, Beach Drive, and Platform Beach, in Rio del Mar. Authorities explained that an evacuation warning means residents should prepare to leave the area if the situation worsens. They also recommended that people who need more time to move out, those with pets or farm animals, and those who require assistance consider leaving early. The county clarified that these measures were precautionary warnings and not mandatory evacuation orders. Their purpose is to allow residents of exposed areas time to organize before maritime conditions could make a safe exit difficult. The combination of large waves, high tides, rain, and wind can increase risks for communities located along the coast. Official forecasts call for a second round of intense surf and precipitation on Monday. (REUTERS/David Swanson)In addition to the high surf warning, the NWS issued a coastal flood advisory for Pacific beaches. The measure will remain in effect until 6:00 p.m. on Saturday, November 14, California local time. The agency explained that large waves can surge over beaches and overtop seawalls, which would allow water to reach infrastructure located in low-lying areas. Exposed sections include parking lots, access points, streets near the shoreline, and other facilities close to the sea. The risk increases during high tides, when water can advance beyond its usual reach and reduce the space available to escape from the beaches. There is also the possibility of coastal erosion and isolated road closures. The NWS recommended not crossing flooded streets or driving around barriers installed by emergency teams. If it is necessary to travel through coastal areas, it asked people to consider possible detours and allow extra time for the trip. Wave height will also not be uniform along the entire coastline. Conditions can vary depending on the orientation of each beach, the depth of the seabed, the tide, and exposure to the wind. For that reason, some spots could experience larger breakers than others. The United States National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration (NOAA) reported on November 12 that El Niño continues to strengthen in the equatorial Pacific. Its Climate Prediction Center estimated that there is a probability of more than 79% that the phenomenon will reach strong or very strong intensity during the period from January to March 2027. The agency also put at approximately 60% the possibility that the episode will reach historically strong intensity, defined by an oceanic ONI index of at least +2.5 °C for three consecutive months. This estimate corresponds to the October-December and November-January periods and uses as a reference the records available since 1950. El Niño is characterized by an anomalous and persistent warming of the surface waters of the equatorial Pacific, accompanied by changes in atmospheric circulation. These changes can alter temperature and precipitation patterns in different regions of the world for several months. In California, intense episodes can favor greater storm activity and precipitation in certain areas during the winter season. However, its effects depend on other atmospheric factors, such as the position of the jet stream and the trajectory of low-pressure systems. In the case of the surf affecting Santa Cruz, the NWS identified as the immediate cause a series of hurricane-force low-pressure systems that will impact the northeast Pacific over the coming days. These storms generate winds over extensive areas of the ocean, push large masses of water, and produce northwest swell that later reaches the California coast. Therefore, although El Niño constitutes a relevant climate context for the coming months, it should not be confused with the mechanism that is producing this weekend's waves. The current situation responds directly to the activity of the storms and the swell they generate in the Pacific. The National Weather Service expects maritime conditions to partially improve on Sunday, after the current warning ends. However, the decrease in surf will not mean that the coastline immediately returns to safe conditions. Santa Cruz County warned that a second set of large waves could arrive on Monday, November 16. For that reason, it recommended not returning to the beaches as soon as the intensity of the first episode diminishes. The weather forecast also calls for the passage of another frontal system between Sunday and Monday, with rain in the San Francisco Bay Area and the central California coast. The NWS estimates that precipitation could accumulate between 0.5 and 1 inch during the passage of the front, equivalent to approximately 12.7 and 25.4 mm. The weather office anticipated that periods of rain could continue during the coming week, although the distribution and intensity of the precipitation will depend on the evolution of the following systems. Meanwhile, the city of Santa Cruz will continue monitoring ocean conditions before authorizing the reopening of its beaches and the municipal wharf. Authorities asked residents and visitors to respect the closures and stay away from exposed areas, even if the sea appears to be decreasing in intensity.